5 Insanely Useful Advanced Poker Strategy Tips

Advanced Poker Strategy Tips


This
article
was
written
by
blackrain79.com
contributor
Fran
Ferlan.

Poker
is
an
incredibly
competitive
game,
and
it’s
no
surprise
by
any
means.
Wherever
there’s
money,
there’s
people
scrambling
to
get
a
piece
of
the
action.
One
great
thing
about
poker
is
that,
unlike
many
other
endeavours,
there’s
a
minimum
barrier
of
entry.
Anyone
can
play,
and
anyone
can
win,
and
it
only
takes
an
hour
or
so
to
learn.
All
you
need
is
a
“chip
and
a
chair”
as
the
old
saying
goes.
The
basic
poker
strategies
are
widely
available
online,
and
with
a
little
effort,
anyone
can
learn
to
be
a
winning
player,
or
at
least
not
a
complete
noob
just
waiting
to
give
their
hard-earned
money
away.
But
to
be
a
successful
long-term
winner,
you
need
a
little
more
than
the
basic
know-how,
especially
in
today’s
games,
where
the
edges
seem
to
be
getting
smaller
and
smaller.
It’s
not
enough
anymore
to
just
play
tight,
wait
for
a
hand
and
get
paid.
After
learning
the
fundamentals,
it
pays
to
keep
building
up
on
your
poker
knowledge,
because
that’s
the
only
way
to
keep
up
and
stay
ahead
in
an
increasingly
competitive
environment.
This
article
will
give
you
five
advanced
tips
to
take
your
game
to
the
next
level
and
crush
the
competition
who
just
wait
around
for
the
nuts
all
day.
Let’s
dive
right
into
it…


1.
Get
the
Jesus
Seat

What
do
poker
and
real
estate
business
have
in
common?
Location,
location,
location.
Poker
is
a
business,
and
where
you
choose
to
conduct
your
business
will
greatly
influence
your
profitability.
So
even
before
you
sit
down
and
play,
you
should
consider
choosing
a
seat
carefully.
Ideally,
you
want
to
grab
as
many
Jesus
seats
as
possible
(if
you’re
playing
online
and
can
multi-table).
Jesus
seat
refers
to
the
position
on
the
direct
left
of
the
fish.
If
you
have
a
recreational
player
(or
more
of
them)
on
your
right,
you’ll
have
the
most
money
making
opportunities.
The
most
profitable
spots
in
poker
are
when
we
are
playing
in
position,
as
the
preflop
aggressor,
against
one
opponent.
And
all
these
conditions
can
be
met
frequently
with
the
Jesus
seat.
When
you
are
seated
on
the
direct
left
of
the
fish,
you’ll
be
playing
in
position
against
them
most
of
the
time.
You’ll
be
in
a
great
position
to
take
their
money
first,
by
isolating
them
if
they
limp
in
the
pot,
or
even
3-bet
them
if
they
raise,
which
means
you’ll
be
playing
a
heads-up
pot
with
them
with
the
range
advantage
post
flop
in
most
situations.
By
being
in
position,
they’re
going
to
have
to
be
the
first
to
act,
so
you
can
get
better
reads
on
them.
Also,
you’ll
be
able
to
control
the
size
of
the
pot,
get
to
showdown
cheaply
with
your
weak
hands,
and
value
bet
them
heavily
with
your
strong
hands.
But
there’s
an
even
better
variation
of
Jesus
seat
you
should
be
on
the
lookout
for.
Jesus
seat
deluxe,
if
you
will.
It’s
the
seat
that
is
directly
to
the
left
of
the
fish,
and
directly
to
the
right
of
a
nit,
a
supertight
opponent.
Not
only
will
you
be
able
to
isolate
the
fish
all
day
long,
you
won’t
need
to
worry
about
getting
reraised
yourself.
By
the
way,
if
you
don’t
know
how
to
spot
the
fish
at
the
online
poker
tables,
I
highly
recommend
using
a

good
poker
HUD.

Just
look
for
the
players
on
your
HUD
with
a

VPIP
of
40
or
more.
VPIP
by
the
way
is
just
a
fancy
term
used
to
indicate
the
percentage
of
hands
that
somebody
plays.
A
VPIP
of
40+
is
a
guaranteed
recreational
player
(fish)
in
any
poker
game.
Your
HUD
will
tell
you
everyone’s
VPIP
(and
dozens
of
other
highly
useful
stats)
directly
on
your
online
poker
table
screen.
BlackRain79
actually
shows
you
step
by
step
how
to
setup
your
PokerTracker
HUD
in
less
than
5
minutes
in
this
video:

You
can
download
the
free
trial
version
of
the
PokerTracker
HUD,

right
here.

Anyways,
as
you
move
up
in
stakes,
you’ll
encounter
more
and
more
solid
and
aware
players
who
will
realize
you’re
abusing
the
fish,
and
they
will
start
to
make
adjustments
to
your
play.
They’ll
start
calling
your
isolation
raises
more
widely,
or
start
3-betting
you
lightly.
This
can
get
quite
frustrating
quite
quickly.
Fortunately
though,
these
kinds
of
players
are
a
minority
at
the
lower
stakes.
Most
solid
players
still
play
pretty
straightforwardly
a
large
chunk
of
the
time,
and
there’s
a
bunch
of
multi-tabling
nits
still
populating
the
lower
stakes.
They
don’t
make
a
lot
of
mistakes
and
you
won’t
be
able
to
make
a
lot
of
money
against
them,
but
they
aren’t
that
difficult
to
play
against
either.
If
they
have
a
strong
hand,
they’ll
let
you
know,
if
not,
they’ll
let
you
have
it
and
look
for
a
better
spot.
So
having
these
kinds
of
players
on
your
right
is
great
for
your
bottom
line.
Not
only
you
need
not
worry
about
their
incessant
aggression,
you
can
also
pick
up
their
blinds
uncontested
most
of
the
time,
which
will
add
up
nicely
in
the
long
run.


2.
3-Bet
Resteal

Anyone
familiar
with
the
basic
poker
strategy
knows
the
importance
of
stealing
the
blinds.
Winning
poker
players
know
that
most
money
comes
from
playing
in
position
as
the
preflop
aggressor.
Conversely,
playing
from
the
blinds
you
are
actually
expected
to
lose
money
in
the
long
term,
no
matter
how
good
you
are.
It’s
just
how
the
game
is
structured,
and
there’s
really
no
way
around
it.
So
when
playing
in
the
blinds,
your
primary
goal
should
be
to
lose
as
little
as
possible.
The
easiest
way
to
go
about
this
is
simply
folding
a
100%
of
your
hands
in
the
blinds.
That
way,
you’re
losing
1.5
big
blinds
per
orbit,
or
about
25
big
blinds
per
hundred
hands
if
you’re
playing
6-max,
for
example.
So
folding
all
the
time
is
hardly
an
optimal
strategy.
One
way
to
reduce
that
kind
of
negative
outcome
is
to
occasionally
3-bet
light
to
steal
attempts.
When
we
say
steal
attempts
in
this
context,
we’re
talking
about
open-raising
from
cutoff,
button
or
small
blind.
You
can
see
your
opponents
stealing
tendencies
by
checking
their
Attempt
to
steal
stat
in
PokerTracker
4,
by
the
way.
The
beauty
of
this
play
is
that
it
is
insanely
simple
and
can
be
outright
profitable,
because
you’ll
be
able
to
win
the
pot
right
then
and
there
preflop.
Also,
you’ll
be
able
to
pull
it
off
quite
frequently,
because
open-raise
stealing
situations
are
very
common.
It
will
also
make
you
harder
to
play
against,
because
your
opponents
will
have
to
think
twice
before
trying
to
steal
your
blinds.
Rightly
timed
aggression
can
go
a
long
way.
The
best
players
to
target
with
this
play
are
of
the
TAG
and
LAG
variety.
They
tend
to
be
positionally
aware,
and
they
widen
their
range
considerably
in
late
positions.
See

The
Micro
Stakes
Playbook
for
much
more
on
how
to
create
optimal
strategies
versus
TAGs,
LAGs,
and
all
player
types
in
small
stakes
games.

But
basically,
these
two
player
types
will
have
a
lot
of
speculative
hands
in
their
range,
and
even
some
borderline
junk
in
some
cases,
like
A6o
or
85s,
and
a
lot
of
these
hands
will
fold
to
a
3-bet.
Remember,
the
idea
is
to
get
folds
preflop,
so
your
opponents
have
to
have
a
fold
button.
Doing
this
against
recreational
players
can
backfire,
and
you’re
better
off
3-betting
them
mainly
for
value.


Example
Hand

You
are
dealt
A♠3♠
in
the
SB.
A
TAG
villain
open
raises
from
the
BU
to
2.5x.
You
should
consider
3-betting
to
10x.
An
average
tight
and
aggressive
player
will
play
about
40%
of
their
hands
on
the
button,
and
a
lot
of
them
will
fold
to
a
3-bet,
which
makes
this
play
outright
profitable.
We
have
a
great
speculative
hand
that
can
flop
a
lot
of
monsters,
and
blocks
a
lot
of
villains’
big
hands
(like
Aces,
Kings
and
Ace-King)
as
well.
Even
if
we
do
get
called,
we’re
going
to
see
the
flop
with
the
initiative
and
range
advantage,
and
can
often
take
down
the
pot
with
a
simple
C-bet.


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3.
Squeeze
Preflop

A
squeeze
is
a
preflop
3-bet
where
there
was
an
open
raise
and
one
or
more
callers
before
you.
If
someone
open-limps
and
one
or
more
players
limp
behind
and
you
raise,
this
is
not
considered
a
squeeze.
If
someone
open-raises
and
you
3-bet
them,
this
is
also
not
considered
a
squeeze.

It’s
called
a
squeeze
because:
a)
you’re
trying
to
“squeeze
out”
dead
money,
ideally
from
weak
ranges,
and
b)
because
the
original
raiser
and
caller(s)
are
“squeezed”
between
two
opponents
and
find
themselves
in
hard
to
defend
positions.
The
primary
objective
of
the
squeeze
is
to
get
your
opponents
to
fold
and
pick
up
the
pot
uncontested
preflop.
Here
is
a
recent
hand
where
BlackRain79
discusses
the
benefits
of
squeezing
in
more
detail:

If
you
3-bet
Aces
after
an
open-raise
and
one
or
multiple
calls,
it’s
technically
still
considered
a
squeeze,
but
in
this
case
you
are
not
looking
to
get
folds,
but
rather
get
called
by
weaker
hands
and
build
up
the
pot
with
your
value
hand.
But
in
this
context,
we’ll
consider
only
bluff
squeezes,
where
we
intend
to
get
all
our
opponents
to
fold
and
pick
up
easy
money
preflop.
What
makes
this
play
so
effective
is
that
we’re
ideally
attacking
a
weak
open-raising
range
and
callers’
capped
ranges,
both
of
which
are
likely
to
give
up
when
facing
a
3-bet.
Let’s
consider
the
open-raising
range
first.
We
should
ideally
target
opens
from
late
positions
(cutoff
and
button)
because
these
tend
to
be
the
widest.
We
should
be
more
wary
of
attacking
under
the
gun
open-raises,
because
they
tend
to
have
more
value
hands
in
their
range
(like
AA,
KK,
QQ,
AK)
and
are
less
likely
to
fold
to
a
squeeze.
We
should
be
less
worried
about
callers’
ranges,
because
we
can
basically
eliminate
those
strong
value
hands
from
their
range.
Had
they
had
them,
they
would
have
3-bet
them
themselves
instead
of
calling.
That’s
what
we
mean
when
we
say
someone’s
range
is
capped.
Now,
that’s
not
to
say
that
some
players
won’t
try
to
get
cute
and
flat
call
with
Aces
preflop,
but
that’s
a
suboptimal
strategy
for
a
number
of
reasons,
which
we
won’t
be
getting
into
here.
Our
target(s)
should
be
weak
players
with
loose
ranges,
because
they
typically
can’t
stand
the
pressure
of
the
3-bet,
especially
in
a
multiway
pot.
It’s
important
to
mention
right
off
the
bat
that
they
also
need
to
be
able
to
fold
to
3-bets,
otherwise
we
run
the
risk
of
getting
involved
into
a
bloated
multiway
pot
with
a
bluffing
hand.
Not
a
great
look.


Example
Hand

You
are
dealt
A♣J in
the
BB.
A
LAG
villain
open-raises
to
2.5x
on
the
BU.
A
nit
calls
in
the
SB.
You:
???
You
should
3-bet
to
11x.
We
can
certainly
call
in
this
situation,
but
the
chance
of
encountering
a
lot
of
gross
spots
postflop
is
through
the
roof.
We
are
playing
a
multiway
pot,
out
of
position,
with
an
easily
dominated
hand.
We
also
don’t
have
a
discernible
skill
edge
on
our
opponents.
Even
if
we
do
connect
with
the
board
in
some
way,
we
won’t
be
able
to
tell
where
we
stand
with
our
hand,
and
if
we
completely
smash
the
flop,
there’s
no
guarantee
we’ll
be
able
to
extract
max
value
from
it.
Let’s
consider
the
alternative.
We
have
a

great
3-bet
bluffing
hand
and
can
get
easy
folds
preflop.
The
nit’s
range
is
capped,
and
the
LAG’s
range
is
extremely
wide.

The
bet
size
and
his
position
indicate
he’s
stealing
the
blinds
more
often
than
not.
Also,
we
block
a
lot
of
value
hands
like
Aces,
Jacks
and
Ace-King.
We’re
getting
a
great
price
for
a
squeeze
and
even
if
we
get
one
or
two
calls,
we
still
have
a
playable
hand
and
we’re
going
to
the
flop
with
the
initiative
and
range
advantage.


4.
Shove
Big
Draws

As
a
rule
of
thumb,
the
stronger
your
draws,
the
faster
you
should
play
them.
It
means
you
are
better
off
getting
as
much
money
in
the
middle
as
soon
as
possible
in
most
situations.
There
are
a
couple
of
reasons
for
this.
First
of
all,
your
drawing
hand
doesn’t
have
showdown
value
and
can’t
win
the
pot
unimproved,
so
you
have
to
rely
on
hitting
your
outs.
If
you
bet,
raise
or
reraise,
you
don’t
have
to
rely
on
luck,
and
can
win
the
pot
with
Ace
high,
for
example.
Secondly,
even
if
you
do
hit
your
outs,
there
is
no
guarantee
that
your
opponent
will
pay
you
off,
because
the
board
runout
can
scare
them
off.
Generally
speaking,
the
implied
odds
are
higher
on
earlier
streets
than
the
later
streets,
and
players
are
more
likely
to
pay
you
off
on
the
flop
than
on
the
river.
Some
draws
are
so
blatantly
obvious
that
even
the
fish
can
see
through
them,
and
won’t
be
as
willing
to
put
the
money
in
when
the
third
heart
comes
on
the
turn,
for
example.
You
often
won’t
get
good
pot
odds
to
call
a
bet
with
your
draw,
so
you
can
give
yourself
a
better
chance
to
win
the
pot
by
coming
over
the
top
with
a
bet
of
your
own.
That
way,
you
get
additional
fold
equity
versus
your
opponents,
rather
than
just
calling
and
hoping
the
draw
completes
AND
praying
that
your
opponent
will
pay
you
off
if
it
does.
This
is
a
fundamental
principle
of
an
elite
winning
poker
strategy
as
BlackRain79
discusses
in

Crushing
the
Microstakes.

That
is,
wherever
you
can
rely
on
skill,
do
so,
and
count
on
luck
only
as
a
last
resort.


Example
Hand

You
are
dealt
A7 on
the
BUTTON.
A
TAG
villain
opens
to
3x
in
middle
position.
Folds
to
you,
you
call,
blinds
fold.
Pot:
7.5
BB
Flop:
K9♣4
Villain
bets
3.5BB
You:
???
You
should
raise.
Folding
is
far
too
nitty,
considering
you
have
a
nut
flush
draw.
Calling
is
not
the
worst
option,
but
even
if
you
do
end
up
improving
on
the
turn,
your
opponent
might
not
be
inclined
to
keep
barreling
on
such
a
wet
board.
By
raising
here,
you’re
putting
tremendous
pressure
on
the
villain,
and
he
needs
to
have
quite
a
strong
hand
to
continue.
By
continuing,
he’s
putting
his
whole
effective
stack
at
risk
on
consecutive
streets.
He’ll
have
to
give
up
hands
that
he’s
actually
ahead
with,
like
KQ,
KJ,
AQ,
AJ,
and
maybe
even
AK.
Even
in
the
worst
case
scenario,
let’s
say
that
he’s
only
continuing
or
coming
over
the
top
with
pocket
Aces,
Kings
or
Nines.
We
still
have
about
30%
equity
with
our
draw.
So
we
see
that
it’s
better
to
use
aggression
and
put
max
pressure
on
our
opponents
rather
than
relying
on
luck
alone.
As
they
say,
fortune
favors
the
bold.


5.
Overbet
Jam
the
River

Strong
hands
don’t
come
around
very
often
in
poker.
So
when
they
do,
you
need
to
make
sure
you
win
as
much
money
as
possible
in
order
to
make
up
for
all
the
lost
pots,
busted
draws,
bad
beats
and
so
on.
The
majority
of
money
you
win
in
poker
will
actually
come
from
a
small
number
of
huge
hands.
The
way
these
hands
are
played
separate
losing
or
breakeven
players
and
solid
winners,
and
will
determine
your
long
term
profitability
more
than
any
other
factor.
If
you
are
playing
no-limit
hold’em,
make
the
best
use
of
the
no-limit
part.
Everytime
you
are
in
the
hand,
consider
the
effective
stack
size.
If
it
is
150
big
blinds,
you
should
be
aiming
to
win
no
less
150
big
blinds.
Always
aim
for
the
maximum
profit.
So
the
next
time
you
find
yourself
facing
a
huge
river
decision
with
a
strong
hand,
ask
yourself:
can
I
shove
here?
Here
is
a
recent
overbet
jam
hand
discussed
by
BlackRain79
illustrating
this
more:
A
lot
of
players
start
fretting
about
the
bet
sizing,
especially
on
the
river
where
there
is
usually
the
most
money
on
the
line.
When
they
have
a
huge
hand,
they
go
for
something
like

pot
or
½
pot
bet
so
they
don’t
scare
off
their
opponents,
or
even
worse,
they
try
to
get
tricky
and
check
in
order
to
induce
a
bluff.
While
there
certainly
might
be
situations
in
which
these
lines
are
the
most
+EV,
more
often
than
not,
people
get
in
their
heads
too
much
and
make
things
more
complicated
than
necessary.
If
you’re
playing
at
the
micros,
your
balanced
bet
sizing
with
a
polarized
range
is
going
to
go
completely
over
most
of
your
opponents
heads.
In
order
to
win
at
poker,
you
need
to
be
thinking
only
one
step
ahead
of
your
opponents,
not
five.
For
more
on
this,
see
the
recent
BlackRain79
article, 15
proven
ways
to
beat
the
micro
stakes.

If
you
overbet
jam
the
river,
one
of
these
things
will
happen:
a)
your
opponent
will
think
you’re
bluffing
and
call
you
down
with
their
third
pair.
b)
your
opponent
knows
you
have
it,
but
they
just
can’t
fold
their
precious
set
or
overpair
and
call
you
down.
c)
your
opponent
will
have
a
busted
draw
and
fold
to
any
bet,
regardless
of
the
size.
d)
your
opponent
will
cooler
you
with
a
monster
hand
of
their
own,
which
is
least
likely.
The
stronger
your
hand,
the
less
of
a
chance
there
is
for
someone
to
have
an
even
stronger
hand.
In
any
case,
you
are
not
really
benefiting
from
a
smallish
bet
size,
but
are
potentially
missing
out
on
a
ton
of
value.
Even
if
you
don’t
get
called,
you’ll
appear
to
be
more
aggressive,
which
is
great
for
your
table
image.


Example
Hand

Effective
stack
size
is
100
BB.
You
are
dealt
9♠9♣
in
the
CO.
You
raise
to
3x.
A
loose
passive
fish
calls
on
the
BU.
Blinds
fold.
Pot
is
7.5
BB
Flop:
J2T
You
bet
2.5
BB.
Fish
calls.
Pot
is
12.5
BB
Turn:
2♠
You
check.
Fish
checks.
River:
9
You:
???
You
should
shove
all-in.
Let’s
consider
the
previous
action.
You
open
raise
pocket
Nines
from
the
cutoff,
and
the
fish
calls.
Totally
standard
and
predictable.
We
don’t
get
the
best
flop
in
the
world,
but
we
reckon
the
fish
is
of
the
fit-or-fold
variety,
likes
to
see
a
bunch
of
flops,
and
has
an
extremely
wide
calling
range.
Most
hands
miss
most
flops,
and
the
wider
the
range,
the
more
flops
it
will
miss.
So
we
go
for
a
small
C-bet,
figuring
we
don’t
need
to
get
a
lot
of
folds
to
still
be
+EV.
Plus
we
still
have
a
backdoor
straight
draw
and
some
showdown
value.
Unsurprisingly,
the
fish
calls.
The
turn
doesn’t
change
a
lot
for
us.
We
know
we
don’t
have
a
lot
of
fold
equity
in
this
situation,
and
we
certainly
can’t
keep
barrelling
for
value.
We
still
have
some
showdown
value,
so
we
check
and
hope
to
see
a
free
river.
And
the
river
comes
with
a
miracle
action
card.
This
is
a
spot
to
go
for
maximum
value
and
forget
all
about
balance,
considering
our
opponent
type
and
the
board
runout.
The
number
of
hands
that
would
pay
us
off
here
is
huge.
Remember,
we’re
playing
against
a
recreational
player,
and
recreational
players
love
to
make
huge
hero
calls,
and
don’t
fold
a
flush,
ever.
They
don’t
care
about
the
pot
odds
and
ranges
one
bit.
So
we’re
getting
called
by
Jx
hands,
any
deuce
in
their
hand,
any
two
diamonds,
KQ,
Q8,
87,
you
name
it.
So
going
for
something
as
½
pot
or
¾
pot
bet
would
be
a
disaster.
Sure,
a
lot
of
times
they’ll
have
complete
air,
but
if
they
do,
they’re
folding,
and
if
they
have
anything,
they’re
calling
regardless
of
the
size.
They’re
pretty
inelastic
that
way,
so
we
should
make
the
most
of
it.


Summary

One
thing
all
of
these
plays
have
in
common
is
aggression.
This
is
indeed
a
crucial
component
that
you
will
find
in
any

advanced
poker
strategy.

Winning
poker
is
aggressive
poker.
Every
time
you’re
involved
in
a
hand,
make
a
habit
of
asking
yourself:
can
I
bet/raise/reraise
here?
You
don’t
need
to
(and
shouldn’t)
do
it
every
time,
but
at
least
being
aware
of
the
prospect
can
make
you
see
a
bunch
of
profitable
spots
you
might
have
missed
before.
In
short,
you
should
try
to
position
yourself
in
a
way
most
conducive
to
exerting
maximum
pressure
on
your
opponents,
and
you
can
do
that
even
before
you
sit
down
at
the
table.
Look
carefully
and
snipe
that
Jesus
seat.
Be
on
the
lookout
for
steal
attempts
and
try
to
resteal
the
blinds
often.
Also,
look
for
squeeze
opportunities
and
try
to
pick
up
easy
money
with
a
well-timed
aggression.
If
you
have
a
big
draw,
try
semi-bluffing
instead
of
only
relying
on
hitting
your
outs
and
praying
your
opponent
will
pay
you
off
if
you
do.
Save
luck
only
as
a
last
resort.
And
finally,
when
luck
finally
does
work
in
your
favour,
make
the
most
of
it.
Monster
hands
don’t
come
very
often,
so
when
they
do,
make
sure
you
get
paid.
Forget
about
balance
and
go
for
max
value.
Your
bankroll
will
be
better
off
for
it.
Lastly,
if
you
want
to
know
the
complete
BlackRain79
advanced
system
for
crushing
the
small
stakes
games
make
sure
you
pick
up
the
free
poker
cheat
sheet,

right
here.

Advanced Poker Strategy Tips

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